Post by iainburrit on Aug 9, 2008 13:16:49 GMT 1
Or the story of a failed engineer (retired actually)
"not shure what a honda legend is,but it sounds like a car and by what you say shoe horn and all that it sounds like the PCD bit would be near imposible"
..
just an update on my rocking horse brained idea.
(rocking horses have no brains, neither do they sh*t either)
well, ken/grinch you would have been proud of me.
I made 3 tools to do the job.
1. a 5/16 clearance drill welded into a 1/2 sq drive socket.
this connected to a 14 inch extension bar, to drive this was a cut down 1/2 sq extension bar that fitted into a drill chuck.
This started the centre point off for the tapping drill.
2. a .256 dia drill that i previously drilled into a piece of steel tube about 15 inches long, i then reversed the drill bit, pushed into the tube then welded that in. The other end of the tube fitted the drill chuck.
This i used to drill through the two seperate pieces a depth of about 1 1/4 inches.
3. a 5/16 unc tap with a wasted dia behind last thread, welded into a 1/4 drive socket. this connected to a 1/4 square extension bar about 14 inches long, and to drive this i made a tap wrench from a 6 inch long bolt with a piece of 1/4 inch square steel that was welded at right angle, as in T wrench, this fitted into the extension bar to drive it.
I had to make do with spray grease as a tapping compound, but it was cast iron for the first part, cast steel for the inner part.
To drive these two parts i used a high tensile cap head bolt that i screwed from the inner outwards by using an allan key but could only tighten it one flat at a time.
I used a normal hard spring washer to tighten up to.
As the two threads pulled tight, they pulled against each other anyway.
The bolt was short enough as to not protrude into the multi V drive of the pully, and being shorter, compensated for the empty thread not used, so the ballance is/ should be ok.
The car drove 170 odd miles today no problems.
By using just one bolt, it not only tightens it up but acts as a drive pin, and you wont shear that cap head bolt that easy on just the alternator no matter how big it is, the belt would slip first.
So, failed engineers, with a bit of savy, can get away without doing it the hard way.
Bye the way, as the motor is a 3.2 litre V6 DOHC with all the bells and whistles on it, there is not much room under the bonnet.
Sorry its so long, but its what i done, but drilling and tapping holes i once done for a living, along with milling, turning, grinding..... (shudder at the thought)
"not shure what a honda legend is,but it sounds like a car and by what you say shoe horn and all that it sounds like the PCD bit would be near imposible"
..
just an update on my rocking horse brained idea.
(rocking horses have no brains, neither do they sh*t either)
well, ken/grinch you would have been proud of me.
I made 3 tools to do the job.
1. a 5/16 clearance drill welded into a 1/2 sq drive socket.
this connected to a 14 inch extension bar, to drive this was a cut down 1/2 sq extension bar that fitted into a drill chuck.
This started the centre point off for the tapping drill.
2. a .256 dia drill that i previously drilled into a piece of steel tube about 15 inches long, i then reversed the drill bit, pushed into the tube then welded that in. The other end of the tube fitted the drill chuck.
This i used to drill through the two seperate pieces a depth of about 1 1/4 inches.
3. a 5/16 unc tap with a wasted dia behind last thread, welded into a 1/4 drive socket. this connected to a 1/4 square extension bar about 14 inches long, and to drive this i made a tap wrench from a 6 inch long bolt with a piece of 1/4 inch square steel that was welded at right angle, as in T wrench, this fitted into the extension bar to drive it.
I had to make do with spray grease as a tapping compound, but it was cast iron for the first part, cast steel for the inner part.
To drive these two parts i used a high tensile cap head bolt that i screwed from the inner outwards by using an allan key but could only tighten it one flat at a time.
I used a normal hard spring washer to tighten up to.
As the two threads pulled tight, they pulled against each other anyway.
The bolt was short enough as to not protrude into the multi V drive of the pully, and being shorter, compensated for the empty thread not used, so the ballance is/ should be ok.
The car drove 170 odd miles today no problems.
By using just one bolt, it not only tightens it up but acts as a drive pin, and you wont shear that cap head bolt that easy on just the alternator no matter how big it is, the belt would slip first.
So, failed engineers, with a bit of savy, can get away without doing it the hard way.
Bye the way, as the motor is a 3.2 litre V6 DOHC with all the bells and whistles on it, there is not much room under the bonnet.
Sorry its so long, but its what i done, but drilling and tapping holes i once done for a living, along with milling, turning, grinding..... (shudder at the thought)